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The islands of Raja Ampat are all made of limestone, a former reef which has risen above the water by the historic drop in sea levels. Easily eroded, the minerals from the sea mounts form beaches and buffer the calcium levels in the water.

The myriad islets of the vast archipelago of Raja Ampat are home to many fascinating and beautiful plants. Without the nutritious soil most plants are used to, epiphytes with specialized behavior dominate the flora. The Pitcher plant (Nepenthes sp.) attracts insects down its funnel, which are caught in a sticky fluid and then metabolized, to feed the plant with the nutrients and minerals it requires.

Though the temperature might be pleasant all year round, Raja Ampat is occasionally clouded by rain and thunder. The thick rainforest on the islands contribute to the humidity, and warm days often bring thunder in the afternoon and evening.

The boats used by the people of Raja Ampat follow the most ancient design of ship craft known. Similar boats were used in historical times to settle the whole of the Pacific, with sailors reaching islands as far as Hawaii. Today, many families use motors on their craft, but the hulls of their boats are still hewn from a single log.

Sea grass is an important contributor to the diversity on coral reefs. In the meadows created by the plants, small juvenile fish can find shelter and high temperatures which speed their growth. The sea grass beds and the mangrove forest on the fringes of the reef are just as important for conservation as the actual reef itself, something that is unfortunately often overlooked.

Sea stars of many species, such as this Fromia star (Fromia sp.) pictured in Sorido Bay, inhabit the reef where they feed on detritus, algae and small invertebrates. Their entire body and movement is controlled by water pressure, making them highly dependent on the chemistry of the oceans. Although they might look soft, their bodies are filled with calcareous plates. Therefore, they are susceptible to the acidification of the oceans which have already begun to effect their larval development.

Predator and prey are both abundant around the coral reef. By struggling to catch itsprey or avoid being caught, the strongest survive. The evolutionary arms race is a constant driving force towards speciation and change. Every organism on the planet is affected by this change and every one of us connected to the evolution of other species, creating a remarkably vast, complex system.

The giant Manta Ray (Manta birostris) is an elegant swimmer that drifts through the oceans, congregating at strong currents around reefs to feed on the plankton that abound. In the last century, this species has suffered heavily from overfishing. Since it is related to sharks, the fins fetch a high price as an ingredient in shark fin soup, a status symbol served extensively throughout Asia.

Though coral reefs are famous for color and stark contrasts, there are also creatures hiding unseen all over the reef. The Tassled Scorpionfish (Scorpaenopsis oxycephalia) is a master at camouflage, able to change the color of its skin to match its surroundings. By hiding in plain sight, this ambush predator can overcome fish and other meals effectively, while still remaining hidden from predators that would otherwise pursue it. If it would encounter a larger predator, the fish has a set of venomous spines along its dorsal fin to defend itself.

The Crocodile Flathead (Thysanophrys sp.) is a master at camouflage. Not only able to change the color of its skin, it also boasts camouflage hiding its pupil, otherwise the only feature revealing the fish to its prey.

Hiding in its anemone host, this clown anemonefish is well protected. Many anemones harbor symbiotic algae, making them dependent on light to some extent. They are perhaps best known for their effective stinging poisons, which can cause major swelling and irritation for humans, and are downright lethal to small fish. The anemonefish, however, is protected by chemical stimuli mimicking those of the anemone, making the stingers unable toreact to the movement of the fish.

Some animals are so delicate that they almost exhibit a featherlike structure. The branches of hydroids create a mesmerizing pattern, able to filter out bacterial plankton from the waters.

Mattias A. Klum

Iris Alexandrov

Alexandrov Klum

Tierra Grande Films

Tierra Grande Publishing

Tierra Grande Productions AB, Hammarskog Svaneliden 120, 755 91, Uppsala